Belum Rainforest - Lake Temenggor, Perak, Malaysia

Banding Island Police Station and a boathouse

After the Second World War until late 1980s, the entire Belum Forest and Lake Temenggor was considered to be unsafe due to active communist movement around the area. The construction of the East-West Highway and Temenggor Dam were among the ways how government hampered the Communist activities. Prior to 1975, there was no such thing as Lake Temenggor, Banding Island and the other islands around Lake Temenggor. 

Temenggor Hydro Electric Dam

Remnants of tree-trunks in the lake 

Upon the completion of Temenggor Hydro Electric Dam in 1977 and within a year, the entire valley was flooded creating 80 islands. Beneath this man-made lake, lies the logging equipment of the loggers who were taken by surprise of the rising water level, the entire village of Kampong Temenggor, Padang Cermin the training ground of the anti-Japanese resistance Force 136 and indigenous tribes ancestral burial grounds. About 400 villagers were airlifted and relocated in villages at the edge of the lake but the stranded animals were spared due to fear of communist attacks at that time.  

This 15,200 hectares man made lake offers a tranquil beauty with diverse flora and fauna. The jade green lake is the home of freshwater fish such as Toman, Sebarau, Tenggalan, Baung and even the renowned Kelah, thus, creating a heaven for fishing enthusiast. The Belum Rainforest is said to be over 130 million years making it much older than the Amazon rainforest. Covering an area of 290,000 hectares, it stretches for another 117,500 hectares of impenetrable forest along Malaysia-Thailand boarder. 

Proud of its natural vegetation and wildlife, the forest is still populated by tigers, tapirs, elephants, rhinos, vipers, black panthers, reptiles, small animals and about 200 species of birds. There are tigers roaming in Belum Forest and elephants wandering along the highway at night. We skipped the night trekking in search for tigers...we don't want to meet them...so we are happy just to see their wet footprints and scratches on the trees the next morning. For two nights we went out to track the elephants but it was hopeless because we couldn't stay up late...we returned at 11pm and they came out at 1am...we will try harder next time. The winding road of the East-West highway is well sign posted to warn drivers that the elephants may be crossing at anytime….especially at night.

Army in charge of protecting Royal Belum Rainforest

The Police Boat in Banding Island

Matching green lake and forest

Small island on Lake Temenggor

Rocky island in Lake Temenggor

Another small island

A room with a view - Banding Lake Side Inn, Temenggor, Perak, Malaysia

A view from the balcony - the bridge to Banding Island

Banding Lake Side Inn

Although the drive from Kuala Lumpur to Pulau Banding is estimated to take 5 ½ hours, it can actually drag longer depending on the traffic. This is Eid and even the expressway can get congested. From the North-South Expressway we exited Kuala Kangsar and drove further up the East-West Highway. The next 39km after the town of Gerik is very winding with sharp bends all over.  

We booked a hotel on a hilly spot just before the bridge across Pulau Banding – Banding Lake Side Inn. Across the bridge is the Belum Rainforest Resort which is much more expensive but with better facilities. Apart from these two hotels, there are no other hotels in the vicinity except for few boat houses on the lake, which is much cheaper than the hotels ranging $12 to $30 USD but I’m not sure about the quality of the boat houses though. I think one should not expect much out of these boat houses but perhaps more for the experience of staying in it.    

King Size Bed

Banding Lake Side Inn is a simple hotel with all the basic features; mini bar, sofa, ironing board and the normal furniture a hotel would have. We had a deluxe room – clean and spacious. But what bothers me most about this hotel is the poor service. We arrived quite late after a long drive and were surprise that there was no one to take our stacks of luggage to the rooms. We loaded our things on the hotel trolley and started distributing them to our respective rooms. I’m not sure if that is the normal practice in this hotel or is it just they are terribly under staff during Eid. “Crappy!” I whispered to myself. 

The breakfast was even more disappointing with just bread, butter and jam. If you’re going for jungle trekking, water rafting and other activities you probably need to load yourself a little bit more to boost your energy. Luckily we brought our own fruits, nuts, biscuits and cereals. Except for a small petty shop and a local stall near the second bridge, this place has no grocery store or fast food restaurant. The hotel has a small shop selling ice cream and junk food but it is very expensive.  The nearest town is Gerik, 39km away. Those are some of the setback of Banding Lake Side Inn. 

The balcony facing the lake

But on a positive note, as soon as I got into my room (401), all my complaints vanished. I was mesmerized by the breathtaking view from my balcony, facing the jade green lake set against Banding Island and the other small Islands. I wake up in the morning watching the sunrise over the shimmering lake. Other families of mine on the second and third floor complained of the bad smell from the toilet, the small insects raided their room but I’m utterly contented with the magnificent view. Couldn't ask for more! 

Huge bathroom

Banding Island at sunset from the balcony

Green tropical rainforest

Jahai Tribe of Belum Rainforest - Temenggor, Malaysia

The Eid celebration this year has been a memorable one. My family and I decided to be close to nature. We spend this whole week in Belum Rainforest area. Apart from trekking, yesterday we visited the Jahai tribe, the sub-ethnic group of the Negritos. 

There are 18 indigenous tribes living in Peninsular Malaysia forest and about 5,600 of them comprising the Temiar, the Jahai and the Kinchu tribes live around Temenggor and Belum Rainforest.  The Jahai tribe is a sub-group of the Negrito, generally short, dark skinned with tightly curled hair. Although today most of the Jahai population live in settlements provided by government, there are families who still retain their forefather nomadic lives outside these settlements. 

He responded well when called - sparkling eyes with thick lashes

We visited a group of Jahai families who just moved to a hilly spot near Banun about 12km from Banding Island.  They speak their tribal language to their children but the adults are able to communicate with us in our national language. We spent some times talking to the mothers and youths and were told that they moved to the spot about 2 weeks ago. Last night, their  area was encroached by a herd of elephants and they didn't sleep the whole night guarding their huts and families. We found fresh feces of elephants all along the path which confirmed their claims. 

When asked about the age of their kids, they didn't know their children's age. There were three mothers with many children.  Their men were not at home and they must have gone out for fishing or gathering of food. Due to their excellent sense of smell, they are usually hired as guide or porter for  trekkers into the Royal Belum Rainforest.  

We distributed gifts to the kids, gave the families some food and money. Initially the kids were reluctant to come close but their mothers spoke gently to them in their native language and it didn't take long for them to get close to us.  Soon the kids were responding very well and they happily collected their gifts one at a time.
    

New Mosque (Yeni Camii) - Istanbul, Turkey

Iznik tiles work

Interestingly, New Mosque (Yeni Camii) in Istanbul is not that new after all. The construction of Yeni Camii also known as Valide Sultan Camii (Mosque of the Queen Mother) had begun under the instruction of Valide Safiye, mother of Sultan Mehmet III, in 1597. Work on the mosque ceased when Valide Safiye died. Daud Aga, a student of Sinan (the great Ottoman architect) was the architect of the building and after more than half a century, it was completed in 1663. Regarded as a work of piety, it was the queen mother of Sultan Mehmet IV, Valide Sultan Turhan Hadice who completed this mosque.

It is easy to reach this mosque, from Sultanahmet, we took a tram and alighted at the Eminönü tram station. The mosque is adjacent to the Spice Bazaar and overlooking the harbour next to Galata Bridge. You will be amazed with hundreds of pigeons on the yard between the Spice Bazaar and Yeni Camii. Like any other Ottoman mosques the exterior has a huge courtyard, two tall minarets and cascades of domes (66 domes), whilst the interior is decorated with blue, green and white Iznik tiles and marble. Although the tiles decorations are considered to be somewhat inferior to other mosques during the period, but to me, the rustic calligraphy is still impressive. 

We spent some moment sitting on a bench near the mosque to sip our coffee and enjoy the huge giant ‘pretzel’ while admiring the exterior of the mosque,  watching people passing by and the pigeons flocking every space for the thrown morsels. 

Huge giant pretzels

You can buy the pigeons' feed from the folks 

The pigeons pecking their morsels

Ornamental ablution fountain in the center courtyard

Exterior of Yeni Camii

Remind me of Cordoba Mequita

Tiles work in blue and white

Decorative ornament with beautiful calligraphy

Yeni Camii from Eminonu 

One of the two minarets

Silver Leaf Monkeys of Bukit Malawati - Kuala Selangor, Malaysia

Great pose of the mama and her baby

Depending on the traffic, Kuala Selangor which is about slightly more than an hour drive from Kuala Lumpur is well known for its fireflies sighting in Kampung Kuantan and Kampung Belimbing. However, there's another interesting spot within the town of Kuala Selangor that should not be missed - Malawati Hill.

He's cool...enjoying his long beans on a visitor's car

We happened to be early for the fireflies, so we decided to visit Bukit (Hill) Malawati to have a look at the silver leaf monkeys. It was interesting to be greeted with troops of friendly monkeys waiting to be fed. There were so many visitors carrying with them bananas and nuts but the petty traders there sold bunches of long beans and water cress for feeding. I am surprise that the monkeys love the water cress!

Interestingly, these monkeys have silvery colour furs and punk hair style...not sure who copied who...but the monkeys must have had it much early than mankind :). Their babies have orange fur but as they grow up the fur will get darker and finally become silvery grey like the others.

These monkeys are safe to play with and all you have to do is to lure them with food.  As more people flooded the place so were the number of monkeys, almost out numbering the visitors. It was monkeys' party with laughter, shouts and everyone was busy photographing themselves with these camera friendly creatures. Thanks to these monkeys...The kids had a good time with them.

Nice pose guys :)

Perhaps a family meeting

The Koreans close encounter with the monkeys

Monkey party

Looking for something!

Greeting the visitors

He's begging for food

Friendly monkeys

Climbing for the water cress leaves