A stopover in Kamyaran - Kurdistan, Iran

Two of our friends posed with the local Kurdish men

A beautiful scenery on our way to Kamyaran

Vegetables on sale by the side walk

We made a brief stop in the town of Kamyaran on the way to Palangan. Kamyaran is a remote Kurdish town, 65km south of Sanandaj. It is a small town but lively with daily activities going on like any other towns. The southern part of Kamyaran is connected to Kermanshah, while the eastern and northern parts are mountainous with beautiful valleys.  It was  early morning when we arrived in Kamyaran and the air was fresh. 

We had to stop as some people wanted to go to the toilet and others needed a stretch.  Anyway, it was a good opportunity to browse through the town and to have a glimpse of the daily lives of the people. The main street was busy with locals shopping for their grocery. Most of the men were clad in their traditional huge Kurdish pants. Fresh fruits and vegetables were just laid by the sidewalk for sale. Our Persian friends took time to communicate with the locals selling their goods on the side walk. 

Although, I understand nothing  out of their conversation, their warmth and friendliness are obvious.  In another occasion we went to a madrasah (religious school) and ask a person there if we could use their toilet but surprisingly, we got invited for lunch! It was such a short stop in Kamyaran and we had to decline the invitation politely.  Despite the strict body check, detailed camera screening and serious luggage inspection at the airports, I still cannot imagine how the locals are such a contrast to the authority!  

Nuts and dates on sale

Fruits and vegetables vendor on the side walks

The madrasah, where we got invited for lunch at one of the local's house

The street in Kamyaran

The local man dressed in his ethnic attire

In big baggy pants

The friendly vegetables seller

The streets were busy in the early morning

 

Top Six Souvenirs from Iran

Bazaar E-Borzoog, Esfahan

While in some countries, most of their souvenirs are imported from China, Iran has a huge selection of local traditional souvenirs. They range from the cheapest key chain to the most expensive Persian carpets. The traditional bazaar is the best place to look for some of the country's best souvenirs. Most of the bazaars are so huge that it is impossible to finish browsing in a day. Among all the bazaar I visited in Sanandaj, Shiraz and Esfahan, I like the bazaar in Imam Square (Bazaar e-Borzoog) in Esfahan It is very huge, not crowded and very organized. Here are the top six souvenirs from Iran which I think are unique and authentic.

This piece of carpet cost about USD $3,000 

1.  CARPETS

Even if you have no plans to buy Iranian carpets or they are just off your budget, visiting the carpet stores and admiring the beauty would suffice. Iranian carpets are beautiful and worth the investment. Although the initial plans is not to buy any bulky souvenirs but the temptation lured by the store owner is way too strong to resist. Depending on the size and material, Persian carpet can be very expansive.

Crafted by the local silversmith, this beautiful silver chain is priced at US $80

2.  GOLD AND SILVER

I think Iran has skillful jewelry designers. Beautifully crafted silver and gold jewelries  and the fact that they are handmade gives it a unique craft as a memorable souvenir. The jewelries are weighed to determine its actual content of gold or silver before the price is quoted.  There is still room for bargaining though you will not get a major price slash.

The hand made enameled copper plate - a gift from Esfahan University

These plates are not cheap but they make very exquisite souvenirs

3.  ENAMEL COPPER PLATES

These stunning hand made enameled copper vases, tea sets, plates, wall-hanging plates and others can be a gift or even for home decoration. In the bazaar, you may find an artisan working in progress, and you can purchase his/her completed pieces. The items can be priced around USD $50-$300 over a range of sizes of wall hanging plates. Of course the price of tea sets and vases will be much higher.

The glittering tablecloth for US $40 and above

4. GLITTERING TABLE CLOTH

These glittering table cloths can easily catch your eyes. They are really beautiful but you have to give it a real check at the back of the table cloth to make sure that the beads and sequins are not falling off easily. They are hand made and I think depending on the shops, quality may vary significantly. Check for durability when you are buying one of these. Be careful when cleaning these items. You can dip in mild soapy water and hang them to dry or you can send it for dry cleaning.

Hand printed table cloth from US $5 to $100 

5.  PRINTED TABLE CLOTH

These beautiful cotton printed table cloths can be both hand printed or machine printed. Obviously the machine made is much cheaper than the hand made and in fact you can get it as cheap as US $5. The hand printed table cloth with the printer's name sealed at the back is an authentic and memorable souvenir to take home. They come in beautiful natural colors extracted from spices, fruits and plants. For the hand printed one, the more colors are layered on the piece, the more expensive it gets.

These mouse pads - a miniature of Iranian carpet, cost US $2 each 

6.  MOUSE PAD

These Iranian carpet mouse pads are the best bargain souvenirs to take home. It comes in various designs and colors just like the carpet. The little carpets are glued to the light foam material and they are very light to carry. But what bothers me is that after few months, the pad tends to curls at its end and of course I can't complain much for the price I'm paying.

I bid farewell to Shiraz - Iran

Part of the tile-work at Syed Amir Ahmed shrine

Prejudices, it is well known, are most difficult to eradicate

from the heart whose soil has never been loosened or 

fertilized by education; they grow there, firm as weeds among stones. 

-Charlotte Bronte-

Many people failed to see the fact that there's always another way of doing things, another side of a story, another side of the arguments or other opinions, different from their own. Hence, pre-judgement or judgement is made in ignorance.

When I visited Syed Amir Ahmed shrine (the brother of Imam Reza) in Shiraz, the pure intention was to visit the tomb of a religious man and I had no other ulterior motive. At the entrance of the shrine all our cameras and bags were taken and we were given a wide piece of cador to cover ourselves completely from head to toe. It seemed that what we were wearing wasn't enough to qualify us to enter the shrine. As we entered the main hall of the shrine I was utterly surprised by the beauty of the shrine,  the grandness and the glittering cut glasses on the ceiling.

Beautiful tile-work

A lady approached us and spoke in Persian. Maryam who was sitting next to us translated the lady's question. In an unfriendly tone she questioned our presence there, "What motivate you people to be here?" Through Maryam, I sincerely told her that my intention was just to visit the shrine of a learned man and that's about it. She continued talking to Maryam and for the next few minutes the lady was staring at us constantly and Maryam who felt uncomforatble about the situation requested that we leave. I left the shrine with a strange feeling of not understanding her predicament. 

Shiraz public library

By noon the sun was blazing and we thought it was best to return to the hotel and get some rest. Late afternoon, we visited the University of Shiraz and Eram garden. Again another event happened in University of Shiraz when the security chased us and stopped us from taking pictures around the university. Perhaps the fragility and the broken relationship with other countries has resulted in this situation. We stop taking pictures and proceed to Eram Garden and of course I'm legally allowed to take pictures of flowers there!

After we bade farewell to Maryam, we took a cab to the airport to catch our flight to Isfahan. At the security check, again my camera was taken for close scrutiny and the battery was removed. The lady officer was asking me, what was it and I explained that my camera's battery is slightly big. They asked me to install the battery and showed them the pictures that I have taken. Luckily, I have not taken any pictures of government buildings. Satisfied, my camera and I was released. Glad we were done with the airport security. What an eventful day we had in Shiraz!

Shiraz from the university's hill top

After this photo we were chased by the security and instructed not to take pictures

The old Quran Gate

Entrance to the shrine

A round about in the center of Shiraz

Street in Shiraz

Kids at Rahulloh bazaar

Traffic in front of the bazaar

Shiraz airport

Syed Amir Ahmed's shrine from the entrance

A City of Roses and Nightingale - Shiraz, Iran

"How did the rose ever opens it's heart and give the world all its beauty" - Hafez

Hafez Thomb under the dome

There is no direct flight from Sanandaj, Kurdistan to Shiraz. We had to fly via Mehrabad Airport, Tehran to get to Shiraz. We were informed of the tight security check at the Kurdistan airport and as expected, each and everyone of us went through the body check. Although we were escorted by many Iranians colleagues, it did not change anything and being foreigners, we adhered strictly to their procedures.

It was a relief that our flight was not canceled or delayed. After we boarded and just when the plane was about to take off, my Iranian friend raised his hands in supplication, looked at me and he said, "Make d'ua that you will land safely in Tehran!" and he chuckled. Jokes aside, there is truth in his words. Most of the aeroplanes in this country are old and aviation accidents and incidents are many; at least more than a dozen in the last decade.

As the airplane touched down in Tehran - Alhamdulilah, I was glad that I arrived in Tehran in one piece! We then took our connecting flight to Shiraz. A city of roses, poets and nightingales - that's what Shiraz is known for and this means I should not miss Eram Garden, Hafez and Saadi Tomb. Shiraz is an interesting city but unfortunately we had only three days and two nights before leaving for Isfahan.

Iranians are generally very passionate about their poetry and even my Iranian friend was always with his earphone plugged neatly into his ears. He listens, he honors and he recites them by heart! It was scorching when we arrived at Hafez mousoleum but that did not stop the locals and foreigners from visiting the place. His tomb is surrounded by beautiful garden of roses and other flowers. Scent of sweet roses filled the air. We approached the marble coffin under the dome to pay respect. My friend touched the cold marble and put his palm on his breast...as a gesture of honoring the most celebrated Persian Sufi Master and Poet. 

Hafez laid to rest in the marble coffin

Decoration under the dome

Hafez Mausoleum 

Bagh e-Eram  - Garden of Paradise

Eram Garden

Every Face Tells a Story - 2011

Every face tells a story

2011 had been an exciting and memorable journey of my life. As I flipped through thousands of pictures that I had taken, I began to reflect what have I learnt from my journeys. Travel is not just about mesmerizing sceneries, grandeur architectures, stunning landscapes, and amazing nature that I have frequently encountered in my previous jaunts. My travels in 2011 was somehow different. It was about the gracious people I met; their presence, greetings and smiles have touched my soul and changed my perception. Through them, I have learnt many things beyond those travel guide books have got to offer.

The inspirational journey to Iran in May, 2011 was an odyssey of celebration in every corner I traveled and a joyful moment with everyone I met. Regardless of the economic sanction, the controversies, the political unrest, the Iranians have yet to offer another side of the story. It is a story of the common people on the streets like me who are anxious to make friends surpassing those boundaries and barriers of politics, language and culture. Their faces transcend an untold story of friendship, hospitality and kindness to mankind. Our feelings are mutual and they hardly need to be expressed in words.

She is so special - Lake Temenggor, Malaysia

My second trip to Turkey in October 2011 as expected did not fail to charm me again with its warm hospitality. In Turkey, it never surprises me when a cup of tea is always there to greet me on a cold Autumn day. In all fairness, I reciprocated every hand extended with a word of “Thanks” – thanks for accepting me in your country, for showing me the directions when I'm lost and for helping me when I'm in trouble. 

These faces have taught me valuable lessons of life. To all my friends in every corner of the world, I thank you for being part of my life. To those new friendships I have sealed along the journey, no words can express how much your kindness has meant to me. To the strangers who have crossed my path and touched my life, thank you for leading me to another destination of life. It's still January 2012...Happy New Year everybody :).

They greeted us and asked to be photographed - Shiraz, Iran

Happy faces in the village of Palangan-Kurdistan

Look like they are in a serious discussion - Palangan, Iran

Warm, hilarious and lovely ladies from New Zealand I met in Goreme

Love every moment of her antics - Palangan, Kurdistan

A visit from Korean friends in Summer 2011 - Putrajaya, Malaysia

Captured her shyness - Palangan, Kurdistan

The friendly elderly men in the street of Kamyaran, Kurdistan

Selling vegetables in the street of Kamyaran, Kurdistan

Smiling radiantly for the camera - Thank you girls - Palangan, Kurdistan

The students in serious mood after the conference - Sanandaj

My new friend - I'm lucky to be with her in Tehran

Befriending the natives of Malaysia

The family of Jahai tribe, Lake Temenggor, Malaysia

I thought, I found James Bond in Hierapolis, Pamukkale, Turkey

He charmed us for hours with his beautiful carpets - Imam Square, Esfahan

She amazed us with her tumbles - From Kos, Greece to Bodrum, Turkey

Even a brief stop for restroom deserves a celebration - Sanandaj