Hiking in Lower Belum Rainforest - Lake Temenggor, Malaysia

Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints

Hiking the Lower Belum Rainforest is an unforgettable experience. It is pretty strenuous and a real challenge walking for hours, climbing the slippery muddy trails and crossing the deep rivers. The density of the tropical forest and humidity remain a huge challenge - it can be so tiring. Hiking in Belum can take days but we opted for a day trip which took about 8 to 9 hours. A good pair of hiking boots is essential and for those unfamiliar with leeches and mosquitoes take along insects repellent. Though exhausting, there were so much to learn from our lush, dense Rainforest and at the end of the day the hike was well worth it. 

We hired a boat with a driver and a guide who happened to be husband and wife team. It cost about RM 400 for the whole boat inclusive of driver, guide, water and lunch but it'll cost much more if you book the trip from the hotel. We carried some fruits, snacks and extra bottles of water to hydrate ourselves adequately. The boat can accommodate about 8 people and it is best to start as early as possible before it gets real hot.

Our guide estimated the elephants were here in less than 8 hours

It took about one and a half hour boat ride to get to our first destination in search for the salt lick spot. According to our guide there are about 60 salt lick spots around Belum and many wild animals frequented the area to lick the needed salts for their general well being or when they are ill. Our first stop was Sira Gajah and there we found fresh elephants dung and their tracks, which our guide could easily tell that the elephants were there in less than 8 hours.

With the help of our expert guides, we penetrated the thick forest and the humongous leafy trees were like a canopy protecting us from the blazing sun. Though shaded we still sweat profusely due to humidity. Along the trail, our guides showed us many medicinal plants usually used by the natives to cure their illness but some, like the Agarwood (Gaharu) and Tongkat Ali have been heavily commercialized for all purposes. Another interesting discovery during the hike was when we were shown fresh scratches of tigers claws on the tree barks and deep marks of the Sun bears claws. We were lucky that we were not greeted by them on that day!

Pulau Batu Putih

 
From Sira Gajah  we continued our journey by boat to Pulau Batu Putih (White Rock Island) which was said to be inhabited by dinosaurs million years ago. From the white limestone rocks grew the Bogak trees as evidence that dinosaurs existed in the area according to the guides. After a stop at the Temenggor Hydro Dam we headed for a picnic spot to have a late lunch. Not just a simple walk for a picnic but we had to wade the river for more than a kilometer towards the waterfall in the jungle. Some parts of the water was shallow but some can be as deep as 5 feet and it was a good dip after a sweaty hiking.

Wading through the river for a picnic spot near the waterfall 

Sira Gajah salt lick 

The inhabitant of Lake Temenggor waving us from a distance

Part of the trail to the waterfall

Rocks along the river

Our guide protecting our bags packed with camera 

Cool fresh green water

Ancient limestone hills dating back 400 million years 

I'm not sure what this is?

Breeding Telapia fish for exports

Lake Temenggor is the home of Telapia fish

The visible sun bear claws marks on the trees

Huge fresh elephants dung near the hot spring

Our guide cuts the Agarwood (gaharu) bark to give us the smell

Cute little monster

Some fungi found in the forest

Belum Rainforest - Lake Temenggor, Perak, Malaysia

Banding Island Police Station and a boathouse

After the Second World War until late 1980s, the entire Belum Forest and Lake Temenggor was considered to be unsafe due to active communist movement around the area. The construction of the East-West Highway and Temenggor Dam were among the ways how government hampered the Communist activities. Prior to 1975, there was no such thing as Lake Temenggor, Banding Island and the other islands around Lake Temenggor. 

Temenggor Hydro Electric Dam

Remnants of tree-trunks in the lake 

Upon the completion of Temenggor Hydro Electric Dam in 1977 and within a year, the entire valley was flooded creating 80 islands. Beneath this man-made lake, lies the logging equipment of the loggers who were taken by surprise of the rising water level, the entire village of Kampong Temenggor, Padang Cermin the training ground of the anti-Japanese resistance Force 136 and indigenous tribes ancestral burial grounds. About 400 villagers were airlifted and relocated in villages at the edge of the lake but the stranded animals were spared due to fear of communist attacks at that time.  

This 15,200 hectares man made lake offers a tranquil beauty with diverse flora and fauna. The jade green lake is the home of freshwater fish such as Toman, Sebarau, Tenggalan, Baung and even the renowned Kelah, thus, creating a heaven for fishing enthusiast. The Belum Rainforest is said to be over 130 million years making it much older than the Amazon rainforest. Covering an area of 290,000 hectares, it stretches for another 117,500 hectares of impenetrable forest along Malaysia-Thailand boarder. 

Proud of its natural vegetation and wildlife, the forest is still populated by tigers, tapirs, elephants, rhinos, vipers, black panthers, reptiles, small animals and about 200 species of birds. There are tigers roaming in Belum Forest and elephants wandering along the highway at night. We skipped the night trekking in search for tigers...we don't want to meet them...so we are happy just to see their wet footprints and scratches on the trees the next morning. For two nights we went out to track the elephants but it was hopeless because we couldn't stay up late...we returned at 11pm and they came out at 1am...we will try harder next time. The winding road of the East-West highway is well sign posted to warn drivers that the elephants may be crossing at anytime….especially at night.

Army in charge of protecting Royal Belum Rainforest

The Police Boat in Banding Island

Matching green lake and forest

Small island on Lake Temenggor

Rocky island in Lake Temenggor

Another small island

Jahai Tribe of Belum Rainforest - Temenggor, Malaysia

The Eid celebration this year has been a memorable one. My family and I decided to be close to nature. We spend this whole week in Belum Rainforest area. Apart from trekking, yesterday we visited the Jahai tribe, the sub-ethnic group of the Negritos. 

There are 18 indigenous tribes living in Peninsular Malaysia forest and about 5,600 of them comprising the Temiar, the Jahai and the Kinchu tribes live around Temenggor and Belum Rainforest.  The Jahai tribe is a sub-group of the Negrito, generally short, dark skinned with tightly curled hair. Although today most of the Jahai population live in settlements provided by government, there are families who still retain their forefather nomadic lives outside these settlements. 

He responded well when called - sparkling eyes with thick lashes

We visited a group of Jahai families who just moved to a hilly spot near Banun about 12km from Banding Island.  They speak their tribal language to their children but the adults are able to communicate with us in our national language. We spent some times talking to the mothers and youths and were told that they moved to the spot about 2 weeks ago. Last night, their  area was encroached by a herd of elephants and they didn't sleep the whole night guarding their huts and families. We found fresh feces of elephants all along the path which confirmed their claims. 

When asked about the age of their kids, they didn't know their children's age. There were three mothers with many children.  Their men were not at home and they must have gone out for fishing or gathering of food. Due to their excellent sense of smell, they are usually hired as guide or porter for  trekkers into the Royal Belum Rainforest.  

We distributed gifts to the kids, gave the families some food and money. Initially the kids were reluctant to come close but their mothers spoke gently to them in their native language and it didn't take long for them to get close to us.  Soon the kids were responding very well and they happily collected their gifts one at a time.