After 500 years - Granada Mosque, Granada

Granada Mosque

One evening in summer 2001, among the many tourists, I was sitting on the bench at Mirador de San Nicolas hoping to get a glimpse of Alhambra at sunset. This is a popular place where people would gather and the gypsies would dance while waiting for the sun to vanish among the red fortress. On a clear day the backdrop of Alhambra, Sierra Nevada is visible. Just next to the square, I found a signboard written in Spanish...a mezquita (mosque) was under construction. 

And in 2005, I was elated to be able to visit the Granada Mosque and performed the jumaah solat here. We stayed in an apartment in the old quarter, AlBaicin. From our roof terrace the muezzin’s azan (call to prayers) could be clearly heard although loud speaker was not allowed. Masyallah, it was a feeling hard to describe…an azan….after 500 years…in Granada! For the Spanish Muslims, it was twenty two years of struggle to materialize their dream after the city authorities continually objected to their proposal. By the grace of Almighty, in summer, July 10th 2003 the first azan was called and this marked a new dawn for Islam in Europe. 

The financiers of this mosque had come from all over the world and my native land was no exception. To our fellow Muslims in Granada…although we are from another part of the world, our feelings are mutual…we share your sorrow, we celebrate your victory and our prayers are always with you.  http://www.granadamosque.com/

Delicious warm bread on sale after Friday prayers

Olive tree in the mosque's garden

A man selling honey outside the mosque

The Ancient Jewel - Alhambra, Granada

A view from Generalife

Rummaging through my files I found these old pictures which brought sweet memories of Andalusia. How do I put it in words…I love every bits of Granada but I had come to this city for Alhambra. I have been here twice, in summer 2001 and then in autumn 2005 and still hoping to return again one day! 

The first time, I flew to Malaga and then took a bus to Granada. Visiting Spain in summer (mid July) was a test of endurance for me with temperatures hitting as high as a hundred degrees. The second visit was much better and we took the 6 hours Trans-Alia from Madrid to Granada...just to be with this spectacular ancient jewel. I booked my night and day ticket to Alhambra months before my trip to avoid miles of queue and frustration if tickets were sold out. Only about 8,000 visitors are allowed per day and entrance is permitted in batches.

Touring this greatest Moorish palace gives me a sense of pride and respect for this glorious civilization. It was Dark Ages in Europe but Andalusia was flourishing as a center of knowledge and the brilliant architecture is remarkable evidence. Every corner of the palace is just breath taking. For the first time I learnt of lapis lazuli which was used as ornaments in this castle. The walls are inscribed poignantly with the phrase “La galiba illallah” - There is no conqueror but Allah.

I smiled looking at everyone in Alhambra walking with heads tilting up….mesmerized, awed by the intricate beauty of this red palace. The carving of the brilliant poet, Ibnu Zamrak (1333-1393) perfected its beauty. Poem in the Hall of the Two Sisters reads:

“I am a garden adorned by beauty my being will know whether you look at my beauty. Oh, Mohammed, my king, I try to equal the noblest thing that has ever existed or will ever exist. Sublime work of art, fate wants me to outshine every other moment in history. How much delight for the eyes!” (Ibnu Zamrak) 

After being emotionally captivated by the grandeur of Nazaries Palace, we moved on to the exuberant Generalife (garden); impressing us with its perfect symmetrical designs to be found everywhere. The sound of drizzling water in every corner of the garden was soothing music to the ears. Subhanallah and praise to Him who has bestowed the genius such artistry!

Honeycomb

Carving on the wall

Patio de Leones (Court of the Lions)

Poetry of Ibn Zamrak

Wall of Alhambra

The pillar in Al Hambra

Generalife

The Garden in Summer

Narangos (Oranges)

Apple Trees in the Garden

Above the Hall of Two Sisters